Lateral crossings
June 2, 2024
The longitudinal crossing of the Andes is challenging. But going laterally raises the bar even higher. For the Andes rise up sharply from the west coast, and similarly plummet in the east, where they dissipate into the Amazonas. A week ago we went west and had to ascent back up the mountains from near the coastline. This time, we moved over to the east. Passing an extremely hot valley, while leading us into the Amazonas.
On the ledge right before dropping into the depths, we are confronted with clouds and a hot gust of air. An omen of what's happening down below. Clouds give way to some views. We are once more flabbergasted by the enormity of the Andes. It's mesmerizing. To be able to look down that far. Amazing.
We start the long descent. Down we find a very, very hot desert. 33 degrees in the shade. Sweat is purging out from our skins. We drink and drink. The body absorbs it all. There are cactuses, yet also mango trees, bananas, coconuts. It is the river that provides the opportunity for life down here. An oasis!
We start another big climb. Paved. Yes. Not steep. Double yes! We needed this to survive the heat. Fortunately, within a couple of hours we reach cooler air above 2000m. Somewhere half way the climb, we camp at an abandoned house next to the road. Wonderful views. The mountains are green and full of life. Big and small. We are visited by a Scolopendra gigantea. A carnivores centipede species, and the largest in the world. Yuck! A long lime green snake takes a peek as well. Good night.
We cycled by tiny villages on top of narrow ridges. What keeps people here? We sometimes wondered. Often there is no electricity. But the ground is fertile, and each family typically has some cows, a couple of chickens, a pig and dogs. It is a simple and peaceful life, it seems. Maybe that's why.
Upon reaching the top of the climb, we sat down and realized. This was the last big one in Peru. Wow. We said goodbye once last year. Then we came back. Now we say, see you later. This will not be the last time we come climb out here. We got up and dropped into Peru's low(er) lands. The green Amazonas! A brief visit before entering the highlands of Ecuador.
Route: Cajamarca - Celendin - Leymebamba - Pedro Ruiz
