Caraz to Huamachuco
May 25, 2024
Out north from Caraz, we rode straight into Cañon del Pato. A steep canyon that separates the Cordillera Blanca and Negra. There is a road deep down, connecting 35 tunnels while snaking its way alongside the river. The day we dropped into the canyon took longer than expected, due to the strong headwinds that surge up through the canyon. We didn't come as far as planned, and resorted to pitching our tent in the parking lot of a small shop. The next day, we embarked on our longest climb yet. A consequence of our descent through the canyon down to almost sea level. Now, we had to climb all the way back up to above 4000m to make our way to Cajamarca. The next big town on our route. And if 4000m of climbing wasn't enough, a bridge collapse along the planned route required us to take a detour adding ca. 1000m of climbing as well as a swift descent, yielding a total of 5000m of almost continuous uphill! This was going to take some time.
Day 1.
After a full day of cycling downhill, we finally start our ascent out of the canyon. Sweet liberation. Canyons make Jaap claustrophobic, we found. It is hot and sweaty. We are tired. Why are we doing this again? Oh yes, seeking discomfort surrounded by beautiful people and landscapes. Stay hard!
Day 2.
It was a restless night. Mosquitos were having their way with us. We wake up after a few hours of sleep and continue climbing. The salty sweat makes our skin itch, which is covered in mosquito bites and slightly bleeding from all the scratching. The climb is merciless. Almost no switchbacks. Only up up up. A climb to truly appreciate the magnitude of the Andes. No matter how far we come, there are always even higher peaks looming around the corner. Incredible.
Day 3.
We take it easy. One swift descent and a short 800m climb to a tiny village with a simple hospedaje. In the evening, we sit in the little colorful town square. The village has 80 families, we learned. One of which sits down next to us for a chat. We talk about ours lives in Hollanda, Paises Bajos. And theirs high up in the mountains. It is heartwarming to be able to share in this manner. A little girl comes by and gives us two "cachangas". A sort of fried bread. Her way of welcoming us. These moments are so special. By traveling through the rural areas, we get to see all of Peru. All the villages and all the people that are scattered throughout the massive mountains, trying to make life work. It's amazing to see, and a privilege to be seen.
Day 4.
The last section of our monster climb led us to the high point of 4300 masl. We are struggling. Again. It's pushing and riding. We wonder. Are our bodies getting fatigued? We feel like a bag of french fries! We keep on going. After a couple of hours, the road gets slightly better. Good quality gravel, still some pushing. It is one of those days when the perceived mental effort is greater than the physical one. Because although it felt like an eternity, all of sudden, we were there. 5000m ascent done. Yes! We sit down for a coffee and take a moment to enjoy the amazing views. There is nothing quite like it to look at the world from above 4000m. We see barren mountain tops as far as the eye can see, the deepest valleys imaginable, roads and tiny villages in the distance, and yes, they are here again too, alpacas! We get goosebumps. This is it. This is what keeps us going out here. Ahead, a magnificent ridgeline and a smooth road to Cajamarca! Loving it.
Route: Caraz - Chuquicara - Sacaycacha - Pallasca - El Alto - Laguna Larga Norte - Huamachuco
