Wind, heat and sandstorms

November 12, 2023

Wind, heat, and sandstorms. Argentina makes us work for it. On our longest day so far, completing 140 km desert terrain, we almost caved. The first 90 km went by like a breeze, so we aimed for another 30 km in the afternoon to make it to a good camping spot. But we didn't know what was waiting for us.

We turned west after saying goodbye to two fellow Dutch cyclists who we had met a couple of days earlier. The wind should have been blowing in our backs from that point onward. But turning around the corner, we stared right into a major sandstorm coming straight at us. Apparently, we faced the so-called "Zonda wind". An extremely dry and hot wind occurring on the eastern flanks of central Argentina, carrying giant clouds of dust.

The wind is hot. Temperatures reach well above 40 degrees Celsius. It's difficult to breathe. Waves of sand are carried by the wind. Every couple of minutes our vision blurs and we get blasted by millions of sand particles. There is nowhere to take cover, so we brace ourselves on the spot while staying as low as possible. Sometimes we find shade coming from the trees which helps with the intense heat. When the road is again visible, we move as fast as possible till the next wave hits. Cars race by, but none even dare to stop. The sand sticks to our bodies which are covered in sunscreen and sweat. Our arms, legs and face slowly become darker and darker. It's a survival game now...

Wild camping was the plan but no way. The wind and sand would have made it nearly impossible. We had to keep going. 30 km became 40, then 50... we needed another 6 hours to reach a village. Upon arrival we found a garden hose to remove most of the dirt. Then a hostel with a shower to finish it. What a blessing. The town lost all its power due to the storm so the night was hot and sweaty too. But at least we were safe and clean in a bed.

Perseverance test passed. Rest days needed!

Route: Cafayate - Belén - Tinogasta