The hectic yin and tranquil yang
July 29, 2024
Deep into the Amazons, we were moving slowly through the clouds. Jaap up front, Aimée following diligently. Never far behind. The sky is dark, the forest and our black ponchos completely drenched. We thought we would be lucky, coming here in the dry season. But there is no escaping it. One year in South America without some serious rains is like a day without a night. But change was coming. After days of continued downpours, we were blessed with dryer skies, clearing the mud from the back roads we were about to embark on to explore rural Colombia from up close.
If there is anything this country stands out for, it must be its biodiversity. It is absolutely mind-blowing. We pass by huge banana trees amidst vast coffee fields. While a seemingly infinite variety of palm trees rise from the grounds, fruits of all sorts dangle in front of our eyes, and colorful flowers bloom abundantly from plants we didn't even know existed. It is a paradise. Teeming with life. Not only the human kind. Cows, dogs, horses, goats, pigs, birds, snakes... insects! Although the true exotics remain elusive to us. Aside from the little monkey that quickly crossed the road in the distance as we approached. At least, we like to think it was.
There is a different side to it too though. Colombia can be very hectic in the urbanized areas. Motorcycles by the thousands racing in the street. Some carrying up to 4 people, a baby and a dog. Music blasting from speakers on every street corner. People shouting. Trucks raging by with a trail of black fumes blurring our vision. It is the yin to the tranquil yang. Fortunately, there are plenty of roads far away from it all.
From the tropics, we moved to Colombia's only desert. A miniature version of northern Argentina. A beautiful place to celebrate Jaap's birthday, and to reflect on the most extraordinary year of our lives. Day 1 of the new one: racing through the sintering hot planes back up into the cool mountains. A path leading us through an astonishing palm tree valley, and up to reach our furthest point north at the last high altitude mountain range of our SA adventure.
Route: Mocoa - La Argentina - Iquira - Villavieja - Ibagué - Salento
