It all started here
October 8, 2024, Bilthoven
When we started out in July 2023, we didn’t know how we would document our cycling journey. I guess we were just too overwhelmed by it all. Figuring out how to do bikepacking in the first place. How to fly with bikes. How to manage in Spanish. And how to ride the bikes fully loaded (which we hadn’t practiced at all), in Peru of all places. Documenting was the last thing on our minds. But as we grew slowly into our journey, writing up what transpired came naturally too. And so, somewhere on the flanks of a mountain in the heart of Peru, this blog was born. Now, nearly 15 months later, our memories are as vivid as ever and many of our stories have found their way into a post. How it all begun, however, was missing. This post describes how we left from Huaraz, the place where it all started.
Our bikes hadn’t been out of their boxes since we packed them up in Bilthoven, the Netherlands. Now, they were standing next to us where we were dropped off by our taxi from Lima, on the streets, in the dark, in Huaraz. You may wonder, why still in a box? We were starting to wonder, too. But the truth is, we were just not ready yet to unpack them. They were safe inside that box, and unpacking them would start the adventure we were only slowly getting used to. Because yes, that’s how we started. Completely new to everything. One step at a time, we started to acclimitize. Quite literally too, because Huaraz sits at 3000 m.a.s.l., which instigated some headaches which took at least two days to dissipate.
The streets in Huaraz were chaotic. We felt quite exposed sitting on the streets with our bikes next to us. We had to wait for the host of our AirBnB to arrive. An older couple was looking out from the window which we sat next to, wondering who would be out there with big boxes this time of day. It became our first encounter with the hospitality of the South Americans. The door opened, and we were offered a stool to sit on as we waited. What kindness. The first sign that South America would not be as scary as it was made out to be. Because we were anxious, you bet. Lima, where we had been for a week before to take our Spanish lessons, was not particularly safe. And while all Peruvians were warning us of robberies at gun point, the television screens portrayed a similar picture everywhere we went. Robberies and attacks across the country. Or so it seemed. Not the most comforting start. But we had to get out there. Get over it. Start the journey and get used to it. Because we didn’t come to just be sitting next to our boxed-up bikes. We came to ride the mountains!
And so, after sitting around for a few days in Huaraz to get rid of the altitude headaches, it was time. Time to saddle-up for the first time. In the living room of our AirBnB accommodation we unpacked our bikes, mounted the wheels, the handlebars, paddles and front rack, and carried the back then shining objects, downstairs onto the streets. Our first ride would be one without any luggage. Some climbing and some off-road riding. Just to get a feel for it all. It felt good to be out. And our confidence grew. Next, we set out for the Cordillera Blanca loop over Punta Olimpica. A famous route crossing two high-passes well above 4000 m.a.s.l., after which we could continue to the Peru Great Divide – the route that would take us to the southern parts of Peru. What a weird sensation. With all bags attached to our bikes, they felt really heavy. Did we have to take these things all the way to Ushuaia? No way… But sure enough, the wobbly feeling soon disappeared as we became more accustomed to the weight. The streets were busy. Cars and motorcycles flying by. So much to get used to. Not to mention the dogs. Most of them barking as we passed. Making moves toward our legs. We had to learn very quickly how to fend them off so that we wouldn’t get bitten and catch rabies. Which was the biggest scare of all. The solution came quickly, though. Get off the bikes and walk until they no longer cared about us. Turned out, this would work for all dogs across the entire continent. This challenge we tackled fast!
As we moved toward our first big mountain pass, Punta Olimpica, we slept at 4000 m.a.s.l. Another first. We remember we cried for at least 5 minutes. We were doing it! Riding our bikes and camping in the wild in one of South America’s most beautiful mountain ranges. We were so proud. The tent stood behind a ledge. Bikes tightly locked against a tree. Was this all necessary? Probably not. But better safe than sorry, we thought. Yet no one could see us. Only a few cars we heard passing by in the night from a distance. It was so special. We will never forget this first night in our tents. The next day we climbed to the highest point. The lungs were definitely still getting used to the altitude. After every turn, we had to stop and breathe. Breathe to catch up with the lost air. It was tough, but we made it! Again, tears of proudness. If only we knew what was to come. It was just one little pass. But it felt like the biggest victory of our lives. For it did not just signify a physical effort. We felt everything we had to do to get here. All the way from canceling our lives in the Netherlands, taking a leap of faith, and getting here with all our remaining belongings… an overwhelming feeling.
The next day we crossed to Chacas, where we ate from a “magic” pan with a seemingly infinite number of bread with eggs and avocados. We found it in a tiny room with just a few plastic tables, a couple of dogs, some people getting a quick bite before jumping on a “collectivo”, and a vibrant lady selling not only the breads, but also coffee and quinoa drinks. Our first true “local” experience. Then, another first discovery. A wobble in Aimee’s wheel. Oh no… the next bike shop would be weeks ahead. We didn’t have the experience to fix it ourselves. We were uncertain. Stress! We continued for one more day, but then decided to take a taxi back to Huaraz to get it fixed. What a contrast. Now, we don’t think twice about correcting some spoke tensions to fix a wheel. But then…
A few more days rest in Huaraz, a hike to one of the many beautiful lakes in the Cordillera Blanca, and a visit to the bike shop went on before we were finally ready. Ready to embark on our adventure of a life-time. South we went. On to the Peru Great Divide!
Route: Lima - Huaraz - Chacas - San Luis - Huaraz
